Skin aging is one of most visible process which occurs constantly in our skin organ. According to the Clinical Centre of Nis, certain plant extracts may have the ability to scavenge free radicals, to protect the skin matrix through the inhibition of enzymatic degradation, or to promote collagen synthesis in the skin, affected skin elasticity and tightness(a). Other suggested that free radicals induced domino effects in production of reactive oxygen species, can react with DNA, proteins, and fatty acids, causing oxidative damage and impairment of antioxidant system, leading injuries damage regulation pathways of skin, including wrinkles, roughness, appearance of fine lines, lack of elasticity, and de- or hyperpigmentation marks(b).
The degradation of the epidermal and dermal layers of the extracellular matrix (ECM), the non-cellular component present within all tissues and organs, such as UV Exposure, decline of lysosomal/endosomal cathepsin K, S and V activity(c) as well as some environmental factors on skin produces visible signs such as irregular dryness, dark/light pigmentation, sallowness, severe atrophy, telangiectases, premalignant lesions, laxity, leathery appearance and deep wrinkling, etc., cause modification of the surface of skin and the physical properties of that lead to skin aging.
Certain chemical ingredients, such as aloin, ginsenoside, curcumin, epicatechin, asiaticoside, ziyuglycoside I, magnolol, gallic acid, hydroxychavicol, hydroxycinnamic acids, hydroxybenzoic acids, etc. derived from herbs have been found to be intergraded into some cosmetic products in treating premature aging(d)
Gotu Kola (Centella asiatica)
Gotu Kola also known as centella, is a annual plant of the genus, belonging to the family Mackinlayaceae, native to India, Sri Lanka, northern Australia, Indonesia, Iran, Malaysia, Melanesia, Papua New Guinea. The herb has been used in traditional medicine to treatnervous disorders, epilepsy, senility, premature aging, etc.
Asiatic acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside and madecassoside, found in the titrated extract of Centella asiatica (TECA), showed to inhibit UVB-mediated damage in NHDFs through changes in the expression of specific miRNAs(19)(20). Preparation including asiaticoside found in Guto kota extract in a treatment of temporal periorbital wrinkles tested on 27 female volunteers by applied the cream twice a day to the region of interest for 12 weeks, showed a significant improvement of the periorbital wrinkles in majority of the volunteers(21). lipstick containing asiaticoside also found to improve lip-wrinkle in in a double-blind placebo-controlled fashion of a total of 50 women(22). According to 1LVMH Recherché, asiaticoside also stimulated collagen secretion which is the major components of skin dermis(23).Chinese Secrets to Fatty Liver and Obesity Reversal
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(a) Skin ageing: natural weapons and strategies by Binic I1, Lazarevic V, Ljubenovic M, Mojsa J, Sokolovic D.(PubMed)
(b) Phytoconstituents as photoprotective novel cosmetic formulations by Saraf S1, Kaur CD.(PubMed)
(c) Differential expression of cathepsins K, S and V between young and aged Caucasian women skin epidermis by Sage J1, De Quéral D2, Leblanc-Noblesse E2, Kurfurst R2, Schnebert S2, Perrier E2, Nizard C2, Lalmanach G3, Lecaille F4.(PubMed)
(d) Bioactive compounds from natural resources against skin aging by Mukherjee PK1, Maity N, Nema NK, Sarkar BK.(PubMed)
(20) Centella asiatica protects against UVB-induced HaCaT keratinocyte damage through microRNA expression changes by An IS1, An S, Choe TΒ, Kang SΜ, Lee JH, Park IC, Jin YW, Lee SJ, Bae S.(PubMed)
(21) Evaluation of the effects of a preparation containing asiaticoside on periocular wrinkles of human volunteers by Lee J1, Jung E, Lee H, Seo Y, Koh J, Park D.(PubMed)
(22) Improving lip wrinkles: lipstick-related image analysis by Ryu JS1, Park SG, Kwak TJ, Chang MY, Park ME, Choi KH, Sung KH, Shin HJ, Lee CK, Kang YS, Yoon MS, Rang MJ, Kim SJ.(PubMed)
(23) [Comparative activity of asiaticoside and madecassoside on type I and III collagen synthesis by cultured human fibroblasts].[Article in French] by Bonté F1, Dumas M, Chaudagne C, Meybeck A.(PubMed)